Thursday, July 17, 2014

Final Summary

It is hard to believe our vacation ended so soon.  It was a wonderful and educational experience.  We love the European culture.  It is so diverse and historical.  The food and wine are amazing.

During our Mediterranean Cruise and European vacation we travelled over 13,300 kilometres. The cruise was a distance of 4,800 kilometers and we travelled 2,500 by train.  The remained was the flight between Toronto and Paris.  During the 36 days we visited 2 continents , 6 countries, and 31 towns or cities

Our Favourite City or Town :

Marg :   Paris.  It lived up to all her expectations.  There is history and good food around every corner

Brian :   Barcelona. There is a spirit and tempo that hasn’t been duplicated by any other city that I’ve visited.

Our Favourite Location :

Marg :  The ruins at Ephesus followed by Gaudi church in Barcerlona.  Marg loved the fact that she was walking on streets that had been major roads for people over 2,000 years ago.  She marvelled at the technology that was used to build and support these cities, in what we generally consider primitive times.

Brian :   Doge’s Palace in Venice. This is the palace that perfectly defines power and wealth.

Our Favourite Memory :

Marg :  A big smooch from Brian on the Seine River cruise

Brian :  Walking through the alleyways of the medieval villages such as Eze. With no cars in sight it is easy to walk around and relax and enjoy the varied architecture and small intimate spaces.

Our Top Tip :

Marg :  Pack light if you are taking the train

Brian :  Keep your head on a swivel when crossing a road

Cell Phones

You need a cell phone to do just about anything in Europe.  They have really taken to the smart phone technology in a big way. You can do just anything online.  If you just want to make a telephone call, say to call a cab, good luck in finding a pay phone.  They do exist but you need a calling card from the company that owns the phone because they don’t accept money or credit cards.  The four apartments we stayed in did not have a local phone.

You have three options.

The first option is to purchase an European account.  Most  travel web sites suggest that this is the
best option. You will need a quad band GSM phone but it needs to be unlocked.  You can then purchase a SIM card from the European cell phone supplier.  Rates seem to be all over the place and you’ll need a passport to purchase a card.

You can rent a phone but they are very expensive.  I saw one add that asked for $25 for the first week and $2/day after that.  Then you paid $0.06/minute to call home.

You can buy a phone and get a plan with a Canadian company that allows you to call from Europe. To make cell phone calls in Europe you'll need a quad band GSM phone. This type of phone will allow you to use it both in Canada and Europe.  Bell has a talk and text plan for $45/month and $30/month for data.

Trains

Trains may be the most relaxing way to travel in Europe but it is the most unreliable.   Each of our trips had some sort of delay.  On our trip into Barcelona the train broke down and we had to wait for an hour to board another train.  On our trip back to Salerno from Naples the train was delayed for about 30 minutes when an electrical switching motor was stolen.  On the trip to Nice from Venice the last train was 20 minutes late due to a strike by rail workers.

Trying to move luggage around these older stations is a pain in the butt.  You often have lift down and up a series of stairs.

The food on board the train, when it is available, consists of stale sandwiches and over priced drinks.

Apartments

Renting apartments is a wonderful way to stay in Europe if you are staying in a single location for several days.  The only drawback when compared with staying in a hotel is that you don’t have daily housekeeping.  In exchange for this small inconvenience you get a comfortable apartment in the location of your choosing and you get to experience local life. Without exception the owners of the apartments that we rented from were friendly and went out of their way to assist you. The owners are amazing fountains of knowledge about their town.  They can tell you what to see, how to get there and where the best places to eat, all from a local prospective.

Asking For Directions

When asking for directions in Europe, you’ll be told that the location you want is a 5 minute stroll.  It will end up being a 15 minute hike over cobblestone streets, up and down stairs and a gantlet run through motor scooters.  What is even more amazing is that Europeans are not fast walkers.  They take their time and are only slightly faster than sloths or Japanese tourists.

Rules of the road

When approaching an intersection with a stop sign, you must understand that in Europe that means automobiles treat it like a yield sign and motor scooters take it as an opportunity to aim at unsuspecting pedestrians who foolishly enter the intersection.

Walking in Europe

When walking in Europe you need to keep one eye on the sites and one eye on the sidewalk.  The cobblestones are usually very uneven and slippery.  Every once and a while they will put up barriers to stop automobiles from entering a street and they make for great targets for unsuspecting toes.  Also in some cities such as Nice, if you are not careful where you walk you may get a smelly brown surprise on your shoe courtesy of the local canines.

Graffiti

Graffiti is the scourge of Europe.  Every space of concrete is covered with this pseudo art.  It shows very little imagination and is blight on the cityscape of most cities in Europe. Dubrovnik was one of the few cities that did not seem to suffer from this garbage.

Photos from our Mediterranean Cruise and European vacation

Here are the photos from our Mediterranean Cruise and European vacation in 2014.

1. Paris

2. Louvre Museum

3. Versailles

4. Barcelona

5. Villefranche

6. St. Paul de Vence

7. Volterra

8. San Gimignano

9. Civitavecchia

10. Bracciano

11. Anguilara

12. Almalfi Coast

13. Salerno

14. Naples

15. Italian Museum of Archeology

16. Santorini

17. Athens

18. Attica Coast

19. Cape Sounion

20. Didyma

21. Miletus

22. Ephesus

23. Kusadasi

24. Mykonos

25. Delos

26. Dubrovnik

27. Croatian Countryside

28. Cavat

29. Venice

30. Burano

31. Nice

32. Monte Carlo

33. Eze

34. Cannes

35. Celebrity Equinox


Tuesday, June 24, 2014

June 24 – Paris to Port Stanley

I nominate Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris as the most confusing and poorly laid out airport that I have ever been in.

Our flight was leaving from Terminal 3. The trouble stated when our hotel shuttle bus dropped us at a common reception area on the fifth floor of Terminal 2.  There was a sign that explicitly stated that terminal shuttle buses stopped here.  After waiting for twenty minutes, I asked one of the hotel shuttle bus drivers about the terminal shuttle service and he told me that you had to go to the fourth floor and catch a tram to Terminal 3.   We waited on the elevators and watched them go from the first floor to the fourth floor and back down again, never reaching us on the fifth floor.  So we ended up toting these two fifty pound bags down a flight of stairs to the tram station.

After we got off the tram in what was supposed to be Terminal 3, it turned out to be a lobby for a couple of airport hotels and a pick up / drop off area for taxis.  The terminal itself was a ten minute walk outside, across a busy roadway.  I’m assuming that this allows the motor scooter drivers one last chance to hit you.

In spite of the French air traffic controllers strike, we made it home this evening.  Our flight out of Paris was delayed by two hours because the plane had been held up in Toronto on Monday evening due to a medical emergency.

It was an eight hour flight and we got home about 9:00pm, which is 3:00am tomorrow or at least that what my brain is telling me.  Coming into Toronto it was a bit bumpy.  We found out later that we had passed through a storm system north of Toronto that had spawned a tornado.

It appears that some type of security scare is taking place.  Our passports were checked multiple times in Paris before boarding the plane. In Toronto as soon as we left the plane and before we actually got into the terminal concourse our passports were checked again. Of course customs did a final check with their new automated system.

As much as I like to joke about European drivers, I didn't see an accident while we were there.  On leaving Pearson airport we saw three accidents in the first ten kilometers and the radio was telling people to stay off the 407 highway north of the airport because of a twenty car pileup.


I'm thinking it was good that the vacation has ended.  All the little things were starting to annoy me.  That's a sure sign that it was time for a change.

Monday, June 23, 2014

June 23 - Paris

I must be at the end of my vacation because I have very little patience left.  We took the train from Nice to Paris and what a nightmare it has been.  The train left Nice and travelled west to Marseille along the Mediterranean coast.  This was a very scenic trip with great vistas to be viewed from the train.  When  the train turned north along the Rhone valley the scenery became very rural with vineyards being the main crop.  We transferred to a train at Lyons to go to Paris Charles De Gaulle airport and our hotel for the night.  This train travelled at speeds in excess of 250 km/hr.  It was a very smooth ride and you would not know that you were travelling that fast.


Scenes from a train : Part 1


Scenes from a train : Part 2


                                                                                           Scenes from a train : Part 3

Getting on and off the trains is a battle with the crowds.  In Paris it became ridiculous with potentially serious consequences. Because our suitcases are very heavy, we needed to take the suitcases off in two separate trips.  We got the first set of baggage off with no problems, but when I went to get the second suitcase, the doors to the train were closed before I could exit the train and for a period of time it appeared that I would be heading to Normandy while Marg was left in the Charles de Gaulle airport.  This infuriates me because these ignorant people getting on the train wouldn't follow the simple rule that requires you to stay to right on stairwells allowing departing passengers to exit.  One fat idiot stopped on the middle of the staircase while he read his friggin’ phone, effectively blocking all traffic.  I should have hit him with the heavy suitcase.  A broken leg would have smarten’ him up.

We stayed in the Radisson Blu.  It was an average hotel.  The restaurant was good but the room’s air conditioning was not working.  The hotel is in the middle of nowhere. There is a small village about twenty minutes away from here, but it doesn't even appear to have a restaurant.

We still have no word on the status of our flight to Toronto.  French air traffic controllers are going on strike tomorrow and it could be at least a week before we leave France.

Sunday, June 22, 2014

June 22 – Cannes / Nice

When we were booking our stay on the Cote d’Azur, we had a choice between Nice and Cannes.  After visiting Cannes today, I can state without reservation that we made the better choice by staying in Nice. I can honestly not think of one good reason why you should go to Cannes.

Cannes is the sight of the world famous Cannes Film Festival held each spring.  It is located about a ninety minute bus drive west of Nice along the Mediterranean.  The ride to Cannes is boring as you go through mainly residential areas and nondescript towns.

Cannes could be a synonym for pretentious.  The area where the main film festival takes place is all flash and glitter but the main theatre where the red carpet is located looks like any other auditorium.

Marg on the red carpet


The public beach is only a small sliver of the main beach with all the rest of the beach having been taken over for the exclusive use of hotel guests or beach club members.  This is too bad as the beach is actually a sandy beach.  With all these exclusive enclaves on the beach, it feels as if the kinetic energy has been sucked from the city.

Beach in Cannes

The stores along the La Croisette, the beach front promenade, are all high end designer stores.  Hugo Boss, Versace and others fill the stores with their over priced fashions.  Because today is Sunday most of the stores are closed so I don’t know what type of business they do.

La Croisette


The old village is a small area and it has very little character either.

All in all, I would say that Cannes is devoid of life, lacks spirit and seems dull in comparison to every other city that we have visited on this trip.

Cannes's Town Square
The last couple of nights as we've strolled back to the apartment from the Promenade des Anglais we've seen this lady of the evening who appears to be in her sixties.  She is dress in this long flowing low cut red dress and has an enormous red bow in her hair.  She is the compilation of every western saloon madame in every bad John Wayne cowboy movie ever made.  It is a bit sad to see her working the streets at her age, but her costume is so over the top that it is actually funny.

You would think that with the World Cup being played, there would be plenty of souvenirs in the stores. This is not the case.  Football tee shirts are nonexistent but there are some soccer jerseys available at $100 or more in the high priced stores along Nice's pedestrian shopping mall.  Even the reaction in bars seems to be muted. I suspect that maybe France doesn't have high hopes for victory at this year’s tournament.

As this might be our last night in Nice, depending on the train strike, we went to a very nice restaurant called Restaurant Francin. You have to love a restaurant that proclaims to be totally French with no pasta and no pizza.  Marg had duck and I had veal with a nice Provence wine.

There was a garbage dumpster on the street next to the restaurant in which a local shoe store had put boxes of shoes that for some reason they could no longer sell.  The crowd that gathered to examine the shoes was amazing. The dumpster was busy for at least an hour as people acquired these fashionable shoes.
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Saturday, June 21, 2014

June 21 - Nice / Eze

We went to the medieval village of Eze today.  Eze is a beautiful little village carved out of the top of a mountain overlooking the Mediterranean Sea about half way between Nice and Monte Carlo.  The village was originally a sanctuary for monks whose purpose was looking after people afflicted by the plague in the middle ages.  Three hundred years ago a fort was built on the top of the mountain and the village survived as a city state until the 1860 when it joined France.

Village of  Eze

Cote d'Azur as seen from Eze

The town of Eze as seen from the old village

Cote d'Azur as seen from Eze

The shops and restaurants are carved into the mountain and these the caves function as retail and living spaces adjacent to the narrow winding lanes.  On top of the village is a wonderful cactus garden with the most amazing view of the Cote d’Azur coastline.  Along this coast famous celebrities have their vacation homes.  They include Bono, Elton John, Tina Turner and Keith Richards.

The view from the cactus garden

The bus ride from Nice rivals any drive in the world.  It is equal in scenic beauty to the Almalfi  Coast in southern Italy and the Pacific Coast Highway in California. Your traverse the southern edge of the Alps and have the most amazing views of the harbours and bays that dot the southern France coast.

On our ride to Eze we were reminded of the threat of pickpockets in Europe.  After about ten minutes on the bus, one of the passengers and his wife got very upset as they realized that his wallet was missing from his back pocket.  The governments in Europe have to realize that tourists don't consider this to be a minor property crime and they are losing valuable tourists euros because people just don’t want to risk a ruined vacation because of these despicable criminals.  They need to be a lot tougher on these vermin and removed them from their society.

Tonight we went to the city center in Nice and had a wonderful meal at the VIP Grill.  We had a conversation with an Indian gentleman who sold granite and marble to firms in Canada.  His sales territory included London Ontario so he was very familiar with our hometown area.  We then went for a romantic stroll down the English Promenade with its lite trees and the hotels flashing their opulence.

I now know why I am considered a Red Tory in my political outlook. We have two train trips and one flight to make in order to arrive home.  Here in France the rail workers are on strike and should we fortunate enough to make it to Paris on Monday, our flight to Toronto on Tuesday may be affected by the air traffic controllers strike schedule for the day we are supposed to depart.

Unions and striking are such a foreign and obsolete concept to me.  I never participated in a strike during my career and I can never support this as a negotiating tactic by an industry.  It seems to me from what I've read about these strikes, the main purpose is to hold on to some utopian idea about worker's rights from the 1950s and to hold back the reality of European Union and its standardized regulations.

I think their leadership has lost touch with reality.




Friday, June 20, 2014

June 20 - Nice

Today we accomplished two things on Marg’s bucket list for this trip.

In the afternoon we went to the beach and took in some sun and swam in the Mediterranean Sea.  The beaches in Nice are divided between public beaches and private beach clubs.  We went to one of the beach clubs because they supplied you with lounge chairs and an umbrella.  This was a must today as the sun was very hot and shade was a must.  To enter one of these clubs there is a steep admission charge but it was worth it. There was a food and beverage service, which we took advantage of for a late lunch.   

View of  the beach
The beach is made of large smooth stones that require you to wear beach shoes or risk having very sore feet.  The shore drops off very quickly, so there is little opportunity to wade into the water.  The waves were very strong and they knocked me off my feet when I first entered the water.  Luckily the water temperature was not too cold today.

On the way back we had another encounter with those friggin' Gypsies. While walking down the street, two female middle aged idiots approached us.  One bent down and made like she had just found this gold ring. While we were distracted for a brief second looking at her, the second thief bumped into Marg and when we got back to the apartment she noticed her watch band had been detached.  Luckily that scum of the earth had not been able to get the watch off.

For dinner we returned to the beach for a nice romantic dinner on the Cote d’Azur shore, better known as the French Riviera.  We went to a restaurant called Blue Beach. It was beautiful to have dinner overlooking the calming Mediterranean and the lights of Nice during the sunset.

At dinner we were introduced to Nicoise Salad.  This is a delicious salad composed of tomatoes, tuna, hard-boiled eggs, Niçoise olives, and anchovies on a bed of lettuce with a light vinaigrette dressing.

This weekend is the Fisher Park high school reunion in Ottawa.  No insult intended but I rather be here this weekend although the reunion would be a close second. It was a wonderful end to a very relaxing day.

Thursday, June 19, 2014

June 19 – Nice / Monte Carlo

Today we decided to visit Monte Carlo, Monaco, home to jet setters, huge yachts, fancy cars, a very exclusive casino, the world’s most famous Formula One race and numerous James Bond movies.

To get to Monte Carlo from Nice you can take a bus for 1.50€.  This is much cheaper than the train and runs every fifteen minutes.  The trip is about eighty minutes and the bus was filled to capacity. I had to stand up for the entire trip but Marg was lucky enough to find the last seat.

The trip traverses the Mediterranean coastline with magnificent views of the beaches and bays along the Cote d’Azur.  Visually this ride will stay with me a long time.

View of eastern Monte Carlo from the casino

We had lunch at a restaurant that overlooked the harbour and was adjacent to one of the roads used in the track for the Monaco Grand Prix.  The road is a steep incline and ends with a sharp left-hand turn.  It must take a lot of skill and nerve to race on this course.  Our meal consisted of two large hamburgers and two beers. The total cost came out to about 60€.

The Grand Prix has been run since 1929 and it is widely considered to be one of the most important and prestigious automobile races in the world. The race is held on a narrow course laid out in the streets of Monaco, with many elevation changes and tight corners as well as a tunnel, making it one of the most demanding tracks in Formula One.

The yachts in the harbour are beyond description.  They are floating mansions.  Even if you won the biggest jackpot in LottoMax, it still wouldn't come close to value of these behemoths.

Harbour in Monte Carlo

Harbour in Monte Carlo

Marg went to the casino but she couldn't gain admission to the main casino because she did not have proper identification.  Just to get into the casino it costs 10€.  We did find an auxiliary slot machine hall and Marg was successful there, doubling her money in about thirty minutes.

Casino in Monte Carlo

Sports car arriving at the casino
This next paragraph may mark me as an old fart, but I saw a fashion today that somehow struck me as inappropriate.  While waiting for Marg to exit the slot machine hall, I saw a very attractive lady leave an adjoining restaurant.  She had on a white loosely knit macrame mini dress and very skimpy black string underwear.  Now that look may work on the beach or the nightclubs, but the casino is a classy place, where gentlemen wear tuxedos and ladies wear evening gowns.  This five dollar hooker costume was out of place.

Nice is a hot spot for jazz and it annually hosts the world's oldest jazz festival. While walking back from the bus terminal to our apartment, we passed a musical instrument store.   In the store several musicians were jamming with trumpets and clarinets.  Outside there was a young boy who was mimicking these musicians.  It is not a large stretch of the imagination to see this boy playing in a jazz band in the future.

We started the evening by going to the Le Bistrot des Viviers.  We have never experienced such poor service in our lives.  Pathetic and insulting are words that spring to mind.  We arrived and the waitress asked if we had a reservation.  When we said no that we didn't have a reservation she made a big dramatic production of finding us a table despite the fact that several tables were available.

After about ten minutes without any service we hailed her over and she ensured us that it would be just another minute before she got to us.  After that she attended to two other tables, greeted several people at the door and talked to the chief.  The final straw came when a couple were ushered into the restaurant and served immediately.  We left right after that insult and the chief was at the door and I'm sure from my look of disgust and the under my breath curse that he understood that they had screwed up.  So if you want to be treated with the respect you deserve avoid this arrogant, over rated piece of crap until they train their staff properly.

We went to another restaurant around the corner, Aux Deux Palmier, where we had a good meal at a reasonable price.  The staff was friendly and to top it off, we got to watch the England/Uruguay world cup match.

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

June 18 - Nice

We are about a fifteen minute walk to the beach in Nice.  It is not a sandy beach, instead it is covered in smooth washed stones that make it very uncomfortable to walk on unless you have some form of protection on your feet.  The beaches were not very crowded despite the hot sunny weather, but then it is a Wednesday and most people are working.  Of course it did have its obligatory topless bathers.  (This comment is for Ron)

I had visited Nice in 1976 and for some reason I remembered the boardwalk as narrow and having cafes on it where you could sit down and have a drink and watch the world go by.  It seems my memory is faulty. There are cafes but they are located on the other side of a six-lane boulevard that you risk your life attempting to cross.  The promenade is named the "Promenade des Anglais" because of the large number of rich English tourists that used to go to Nice in the winter.  It is huge with bike lanes and jogging lanes and room for tons of pedestrians. Down on the beach there are several high end restaurants but nothing that would allow you to kick off your shoes and relax over a glass of wine.

Promenade des Anglais

Beach looking west in Nice

Beach club in Nice
We did find a unique restaurant on the far west end of the beach.  It is a little cafe cut into the rock where we had a pizza and a beer.  It supposed to be for the exclusive use of the police but the owner lets us in to eat. Marg discovered that the WC is in a cave embedded in the seawall.  This is kind of neat until you realise that Nice is in an earthquake zone.

Cave side restaurant

Toilet embedded in  the cliff

From there we went into the old town of Nice.  This was very pleasant area that even though it is overrun by tourists, such as us, it is still home to many people and has a strong feeling of community to it.  There was a market in the morning which we missed and there are many shops, such as butchers and wines stores that locals use daily.  The alleys are narrow but there are many roads that you could access with a car.  Marg was finally able to find a floppy hat to protect her from the hot sun.

In the old town there were several plaques dedicated to the fallen of the Second World War.  Instead of being dedicated to the regular army they are dedicated to those who fought and died with the French Resistance from 1940 to 1944.

Old Town in Nice

Old Town in Nice

Spice shop in old town of Nice

Marg's new hat

I was impressed with the local architecture.  It appears that a lot of the apartments and hotels close to the beach and on major thoroughfares are about 100 years old.  They are between four and six floors high and the windows are very symmetrical.  The balconies are mix of styles but most seem to have a bit of a curve or design to them.  The colours of the stucco exteriors range from light brown to white. Some of the buildings have a thimble shaped roofs in a green coloured tile.  I'm not sure of the significance of this style. 

Residences in Nice

Residences in Nice

It should be noted that Nice also has the worst designed building I've seen.  Their museum of Modern Art is a big multi sided grey box with no windows.  It makes Ottawa's NAC look like a grand palace.

I would also like this opportunity to again mention the owners of this apartment, Kay and Guy Embriaco. Again this morning, their ISP was down and I called her at work to tell her.  She got right on it away and replied back to us quickly with the news that it was a system wide problem and would be resolved shortly.  Their attention to detail and helpfulness is wonderful.

Tonight we went to dinner at a restaurant recommended by Kay and Guy called L'Occitanie.  The menu was entirely in French and Marg ended up ordering Veal livers, but at least the fries were good.  The owner is a former rugby player who played for Toulon for 15 years in the French professional league.  He was very personable and even though his English was  only slightly better than our French we had a great time.

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

June 17 – On Route to Nice France

This morning, and I mean early morning, we bid our fond farewells to John and Heather.  They were heading to Bologna Italy and we were headed to the Cote d’Azur and staying in Nice.

Our train trip was a three-step journey.  The first stage was from Venice to Milan.  As we headed north from Venice, the scenery was mainly rural with many small towns along the way.  The scenery was very green and fertile with many vineyards and lots of olive trees to be seen.  The Alps were to our north and they provided a dramatic contrast to the agricultural valleys that we were passing through.  Then as we headed west the landscape became much more industrial and the towns lost their charm as they appeared to be more modern but much more dirty.

About two thirds of the way to Milan the scenery changed again as we started going through the Italian Alps and their lush valleys.

After our transfer in Milan we headed southwest to the Mediterranean coast.  The Alps came right down to the Mediterranean and the fabulous beaches along the coast form what is commonly called the Italian Riviera.  These resort towns, such as Sanremo, looked very exclusive and I suspect it costs a pretty penny to stay there.

Harbour in Sanremo Italy
At the French boarder we transferred trains to take a commuter train into Nice.  There is a strike going on with the French railways and the train was 25 minutes late, but at least it got us to Nice.  The landscape was a continuation of the Italian Riviera.  Along the way we passed through Monte Carlo and Villefranche.

None of these train stations had handicapped accessible ramps or elevators.  So we had to tote our 50lbs bags up and down stairs, battling crowds of commuters in the process to get from one platform to another. A truly handicapped person must become very frustrated.

The apartment that we are renting in Nice is a small cozy studio.  The owners are very nice and have gone out of their way to make us comfortable.  When they left, I tried the internet and it did not work.  So I called them and they came right back over in fifteen minutes, talked to ISP and had the router reset.

Our apartment in Nice
For dinner we went to a restaurant called Vingt4.  It was one of our better meals so far.  After reading Heather's Facebook page, it pales in comparison. It seems that they had dinner with Ozzy Osborne last night, or least were in the same restaurant.

Vingt4 Restaurant


June 16 - Venice

The trouble with writing a blog about travels in Europe is that you run out of superlatives.  Beautiful, spectacular, magnificent, awe inspiring, are all words used so often that they stop having any meaning. Such is the case when describing Venice.

This afternoon we went for lunch in a small cafe along one of the many canals that run off the Grand Canal.  It was fun watching the gondolas floating down the canal carrying their many passengers.  Unfortunately none of the gondoliers were singing. 

My stomach seems to have settled down a bit and I was able to have some pasta with a cream sauce.  I'm not going to be having wine or tomato sauce for a couple of days.

Next we went to the Doge's Palace in St. Marks Square.  This is one of the most spectacular palaces that we have ever seen.  Its statue filled courtyard  guides you to gold-covered stairwells that  lead to chambers filled with priceless works of art that in turn lead to football sized assembly halls decorated with huge murals on the walls and exquisite paintings on the ceilings depicting the history of Venice.  One can only imagine the wealth and power that Venice had in the Renaissance.

Chamber of Quarantia Civil Vecchia

Sala del Maggiore Consiglio

Scala d'Oro
The Doge was an elected official who presided over the government of the city state of Venice.  Once the Doge was elected, he presided over the government of Venice for life.  The palace was his residence, the legislative assembly, Venice’s  highest court and its jail. The government was a unique combination of democracy and aristocratic rule.  The Doge did not have complete power and he ruled with along with the college of noblemen.

As Marg pointed out, the Doge’s official robe of office included an Elf hat although I suspect historians may take offence to that description.


For our last night in Venice, we went to another canal side restaurant, close to our apartment, to enjoy a leisurely dinner, watch the boats and the sunset.  It was a nice way to cap off a wonderful few days in Venice.  

Our last supper in Venice

Zattere Boardwalk at night

Santa Maria della Salute

Monday, June 16, 2014

June 15 - Venice / Burano

I seemed to have gotten my strength back and was feeling almost normal again.  So Marg and I decided to visit the fishing village of Burano.   Burano is known for its lace, fresh sea food and multi coloured houses.  It took about an hour on the water bus to get from St. Marks Square to the island.

We had a great lunch at a restaurant called Galuppi and then Marg bought a new lace table cloth for the dining room table.  It is just a very relaxing way to spend an afternoon in Venice, away from the crowds in the central area of the city.

Houses in Barano

Houses in Barano

Houses in Barano

For dinner we went to Alilaguna Giardin in St. Marks Square, where all had pasta.  Then we went to one of the outdoor cafes in the square and had drinks and listened to the music provided by the different orchestras at each cafe.  This of course is a time-honoured tradition in Venice and makes you feel very continental.

An evening in St. Mark's Square

An evening in St. Mark's Square

An evening in St. Mark's Square

An evening in St. Mark's Square

At one of the tables was an Italian gentleman, who was dressed in a white silk suit and gaudy rings and bracelets.  He had a big white hat and looked a Mafia Don from the worst gangster movie you've ever seen.  
As the evening progressed, I started losing my strength again.  I made it back to the apartment and had a very rough night.  Marg is concerned because I'm having the same symptoms she had when she developed her bleeding ulcer.   It appeared that I did throw up something that may have been blood. Because it only happened once as opposed to multiple times for Marg, I'm hoping this is not developing into something more serious. Unfortunately she also has John and Heather very worried too. 

June 14 - Venice

This morning we disembarked from the Celebrity Equinox after a fabulous 14 day cruise.  Once we got outside of the terminal we tried to get a water taxi to go to our apartment.  What a zoo!  With more than six thousand passengers from the three cruise liners all looking for taxis at the same time, it was impossible to get one quickly.  We queued for over an hour before we finally got a water taxi.

The apartment is wonderful. It is next to the Giudecca Canal along the Zattere boardwalk. It has three bedrooms, on the third floor, with balconies that have great views of the main shipping canal. From here you can see the cruise ships sail in and out of Venice.  It used to be the owner’s family residence when he was growing up. We are staying in his old bedroom, while John and Heather are in his sister's bedroom.  It has all the modern amenities that you could want and all the old world charm that you desire.  Giogio has kept all his university text books in the shelves about the bed.  It includes a copy of MS DOS in the original grey plastic case.  That brought back memories from thirty years ago.

Our apartment in Venice


Our apartment in Venice

Our apartment in Venice

Our apartment in Venice

Although I'm still feeling the effects of the heat exhaustion, I feel much better today.  I'm drinking lots of water and taking it easy.

Tonight John organized an evening of cultural enlightenment for us.  We went to an opera performed by the Musica A Palazzo Opera Company.  We saw La Traviata by Verdi.  The performance took place in an old gothic palace along the Grand Canal, known as the Palazzo Barbarigo-Minotto  There were three acts in the opera, each act taking place in a different room of the house.  It was very intimate with about seventy people in the audience and the acoustics were great.  The case had one female singer and two males.   What fantastic and powerful voices they have.  They were accompanied by a string quartet that was equally outstanding.

An evening at the opera

We were given a program which had the English translation of the Italian lyrics, so Marg was able to keep up with the story.  Even though I didn’t understand a word, it was still a very memorable experience, one well worth repeating sometime in the future.

June 13 - Venice

We left Dubrovnik and sailed northwest into the Adriatic Sea arriving in Venice at around 11am.   The boat passed into the Laguna Veneta and rounded Venice from the southwest heading up the Giudecca Canal passing St. Mark’s Square in the process.  Everyone onboard the ship was on deck to see this beautiful city.  We celebrated with a bottle of Champagne that Anna Oliva from Merit Travel had sent us.

Views of Venice from the Celebrity Equinox

Views of Venice from the Celebrity Equinox

Views of Venice from the Celebrity Equinox


Video of Venice from the sun deck of the Celebrity Equinox


After we docked, we left the ship and took a water taxi down the Grand Canal. To say the sites are awe inspiring would be an understatement. There are many regal palaces and stately homes that line the canal, each invoking images of great power and wealth.

Grand Canal


This was a very hot day, the hottest yet on this trip, and standing on the deck in the bright sun took its toll.  Of course as I’m constantly reminded, I don’t wear a hat and I don’t drink enough water.  The end result was a case of heat exhaustion.   Marg was able to get me back to the boat before I totally collapsed.  It has been a long time since I was this sick.  At times I thought I was going to have to go to the hospital because I had absolutely no muscle strength.

Marg, John and Heather had a wonderful meal and said their sad goodbyes to Rolando, Dadan and Howar, our dining room staff.  What an amazing staff we had, they added so much to our enjoyment of the cruise.