Wednesday, June 18, 2014

June 18 - Nice

We are about a fifteen minute walk to the beach in Nice.  It is not a sandy beach, instead it is covered in smooth washed stones that make it very uncomfortable to walk on unless you have some form of protection on your feet.  The beaches were not very crowded despite the hot sunny weather, but then it is a Wednesday and most people are working.  Of course it did have its obligatory topless bathers.  (This comment is for Ron)

I had visited Nice in 1976 and for some reason I remembered the boardwalk as narrow and having cafes on it where you could sit down and have a drink and watch the world go by.  It seems my memory is faulty. There are cafes but they are located on the other side of a six-lane boulevard that you risk your life attempting to cross.  The promenade is named the "Promenade des Anglais" because of the large number of rich English tourists that used to go to Nice in the winter.  It is huge with bike lanes and jogging lanes and room for tons of pedestrians. Down on the beach there are several high end restaurants but nothing that would allow you to kick off your shoes and relax over a glass of wine.

Promenade des Anglais

Beach looking west in Nice

Beach club in Nice
We did find a unique restaurant on the far west end of the beach.  It is a little cafe cut into the rock where we had a pizza and a beer.  It supposed to be for the exclusive use of the police but the owner lets us in to eat. Marg discovered that the WC is in a cave embedded in the seawall.  This is kind of neat until you realise that Nice is in an earthquake zone.

Cave side restaurant

Toilet embedded in  the cliff

From there we went into the old town of Nice.  This was very pleasant area that even though it is overrun by tourists, such as us, it is still home to many people and has a strong feeling of community to it.  There was a market in the morning which we missed and there are many shops, such as butchers and wines stores that locals use daily.  The alleys are narrow but there are many roads that you could access with a car.  Marg was finally able to find a floppy hat to protect her from the hot sun.

In the old town there were several plaques dedicated to the fallen of the Second World War.  Instead of being dedicated to the regular army they are dedicated to those who fought and died with the French Resistance from 1940 to 1944.

Old Town in Nice

Old Town in Nice

Spice shop in old town of Nice

Marg's new hat

I was impressed with the local architecture.  It appears that a lot of the apartments and hotels close to the beach and on major thoroughfares are about 100 years old.  They are between four and six floors high and the windows are very symmetrical.  The balconies are mix of styles but most seem to have a bit of a curve or design to them.  The colours of the stucco exteriors range from light brown to white. Some of the buildings have a thimble shaped roofs in a green coloured tile.  I'm not sure of the significance of this style. 

Residences in Nice

Residences in Nice

It should be noted that Nice also has the worst designed building I've seen.  Their museum of Modern Art is a big multi sided grey box with no windows.  It makes Ottawa's NAC look like a grand palace.

I would also like this opportunity to again mention the owners of this apartment, Kay and Guy Embriaco. Again this morning, their ISP was down and I called her at work to tell her.  She got right on it away and replied back to us quickly with the news that it was a system wide problem and would be resolved shortly.  Their attention to detail and helpfulness is wonderful.

Tonight we went to dinner at a restaurant recommended by Kay and Guy called L'Occitanie.  The menu was entirely in French and Marg ended up ordering Veal livers, but at least the fries were good.  The owner is a former rugby player who played for Toulon for 15 years in the French professional league.  He was very personable and even though his English was  only slightly better than our French we had a great time.

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